After analyzing reviews from the following sources: Wood Magazine, Popular Woodworking, Woodworker's Journal, Toologics.com, PopularMechanics, Woodcraft Magazine, Consumer Reports and others the reviewers at ConsumerSearch.com had the following to say about the SawStop CNS175-SFA30

If you want the very safest table saw on the market, the SawStop contractor saw incorporates a proprietary flesh-sensing blade brake, plus a riving knife and excellent blade guard. If you add the handled jobsite cart… expand(*Est. $200), it becomes a portable table saw. In addition to the award-winning safety features, reviews say this saw runs and cuts smoothly, with excellent dust collection through a 4-inch port. Cast-iron wings (*Est. $190) cost extra. For mobility within a workshop, add a mobile base (*Est. $160). You can also buy versions with longer rails. The warranty is for two years.

This long-awaited table saw incorporates the SawStop flesh-sensing blade brake that prevents losing a finger, plus a riving knife and excellent blade guard. Reviews say this contractor saw rivals the performance of top-ranked hybrid saws. It runs and cuts smoothly, with excellent dust collection through a 4-inch port. Reviews recommend opting for the cast-iron wings (*Est. $190) extras worth the extra cost. A mobile base (*Est. $160) and handled jobsite cart (*Est. $200) are also available, though the saw is still too heavy for one person to load into a truck or van. The warranty is for two years. If you can't invest this much in a contractor saw, the more portable Bosch 4100DG-09 (*Est. $725) has the same safety features except for the flesh-sensing technology.

We found the best reviews of the SawStop Contractor Saw at Wood Magazine and at Popular Woodworking, where it's tested in detail. Much earlier comparison tests of contractor saws at Woodworker's Journal cover a preproduction model. The single-product review at Taunton includes a video tour of the saw, which wins a 2008 Editors' Choice award at Tools of the Trade. The review at Toologics.com is by an experienced woodworker who's also used the SawStop Cabinet Saw. Earlier, Popular Mechanics gives the SawStop an award for safety features unique among contractor saws, a hand surgeon discusses SawStop in relation to safety and potential medical costs in Woodcraft magazine, and ConsumerReports.org gives the SawStop technology thorough testing.

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Sawstop CNS175-SFA30 1-3/4 HP Contractor Saw with 30-Inch Aluminum Extrusion Fence and Rail Kit List Price: $1,749.00 Sale Price: $1,599.00 You save: $150.00 (9%)   Eligible for free shipping! Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days 3 new from $1,599.00

Description

The SawStop Contractor Saw offers versatility and safety in the shop and stability and mobility on the jobsite. It delivers the performance you need with the peace of mind only SawStops patented safety system can provide. The SawStop table saws unique brake design detects hand or finger contact with the saw blade within milliseconds, instantly stopping and retracting the blade, helping to avoid serious injury. The fit, finish and tolerance levels are second to none. Includes: 1 3/4 HP Saw with stand, 30" Aluminum Extrusion Fence System, 10" 40-tooth combination blade, two stamped wings, blade guard assembly, miter gauge, riving knife, blade wrenches and owners manual. $150 SHIPPING CHARGE. Specs: Cast-iron table: 20" w, 27" d Extension wing: 12" w, 27" d Blade: 10" diameter, 5/8" arbor Blade tilt: left Maximum depth of cut: 3 1/8" Dado diameter: 8" Dado max. width: 13/16" Dust-collection port: 4" diameter Insert: zero-clearance lock-down insert Blade guard: polycarbonate, thin profile Riving knife/splitter: 2mm thick

Features

• 58 1/2-inch w, 40-inch d, 34 3/4-inch h
• Unmatched fit and finish with a keen attention to detail.
• SawStop safety system
• Stable Performance
• Mobility options like Job Site Cart and Mobile Base

Reviews

Then the easiest way to check your fence is to make the fence also parallel to the slots. So here's the way I'm going to do this. I'm going to slide my fence over until the face of the fence is even with the miter gauge slot and lock it down and I'm not looking at it. I'm feeling it. My fingers in this case will tell me more than my eyes will. So I'm feeling that, that I'm going to feel it all the way to the back and if they're even in the front, in order to be parallel of course, I need to be even all the way back. Now if they're not, we need to make a correction.

I'll show you the correction as it's made on two different style of fences. This is a T-square style fence. With this, the way it commonly works is that underneath the fence, there are tabs that look kind of like a leaf spring. In here, on the front of the fence, there's such screw. So when I dialed that such screw in, it pushes on this tab and then of course towards the fence in the opposite direction. If I back such screw out it lets the fence come in. So I'm out to parallel, I'm making adjustment by turning this such screw just a little bit, bring the fence back, check it again and just keep dialing that in until we bring that fence in parallel. Of course it's good to look at the owner's manual for your particular fence. Make sure you're getting that just straight.

Now, there's a different style of fence you might have. On this fence, it's a little bit different. It's not a T-square style. The way this one works is that there are four bolts here and these hold the body of the fence to the head of the fence. So when I loosen these bolts then let me move this part, the body independently the head. So step one will be the same. I'll bring this to my miter gauge slot. I'll check them to see and make sure they're parallel. If they're not, loosen the body of the fence, get in just the right position and then using the bolts, and lock it down.

Sometimes you'll see a couple of bolts up here through the top, sometimes down here. But the concept is the same. The bolts are oversize holes. The oversize holes give you the wiggle room that you need in order to adjust this.

So a couple of different styles of fences again, the best thing to do is to refer to your owner's manual. Make sure you're doing it right for your fence. Most importantly, make sure that your fence is parallel to the blade in order to be safe and get the best quality cuts.

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Steel City Tool Works 35900 1.75HP 10-Inch Left Tilt Cabinet Saw with 30-Inch Fence List Price: $1,889.99

Description

The Steel City 10" Cabinet Saw's 1.75 HP TEFC dual capacity motor provides plenty of power for tough cutting operations. Precision-machined cast iron trunions are mounted to the cabinet to ensure perfect blade alignment, increased stability and to eliminate vibration. The entire arbor, motor and trunion support mechanism travels vertically on dovetailed ways for the utmost accuracy. Quick release riving knife gives additional safety when making a variety of cuts.

Features

• Motor: 1.75HP TEFC, 240-Volt, 60 Hertz
• 1.75 Horsepower TEFC dual capacitor motor provides plenty of power for tough cutting operations
• Cabinet Mounted Trunion System: Precision-machined cast iron trunions mounted to cabinet. Insuring blade alignment, stability, decreased vibration
• Blade RPM: 3450
• 5-Year Limited Warranty

Reviews

By Sandor Nagyszalanczy

It's one thing to own an expensive sports car or a luxurious boat, it's another thing to keep it in top condition over time. Regular maintenance is essential to keep all of our "adult toys" operating at their best. A table saw - or any power tool - is no different. A well-tuned machine is a pleasure to use, while a poorly maintained one is at best inaccurate and a pain to use and at worst can cause a serious accident.

Keeping a table saw in top-notch condition isn't difficult, it just takes a bit of attention in the form of regular maintenance including cleaning, inspection, replacement of worn parts, alignment and fine tuning. I like to go over my saw and perform each of the operations I've described in this column at least once every six months - more often if I'm using the saw all the time. It's also prudent to go through most of these procedures on a brand-new saw right after you assemble it. Good maintenance will keep any kind of table saw - cabinet, contractor's or portable - performing both accurately and safely over the decades to come.

Cleaning the Guts

Sawdust builds up on a table saw's mechanical components, like the trunnion sector and worm gears, angle stops, and the mechanism that raises and lowers the blade. Sawdust and gunk tend to make adjusting the saw sluggish and can even lead to inaccurate settings, say when returning the saw to square.

Start by unplugging the saw from power and take off any dust collection hoses or catch bins from the saw's base. If it's not too heavy, carefully tip the saw backwards and rest the back edge of the table on a pair of sturdy boxes. (With contractor's-style saws, use boxes tall enough to keep the saw's motor from contacting the floor.) Lighter portable saws can be flipped over onto their tops. Inverting the saw makes cleaning a lot easier than trying to reach up underneath and have sawdust fall in your face!

To loosen dust and oily gunk that have built up and caked on mechanism surfaces, scrub the parts with a brush that has either firm nylon or medium-stiff brass or steel bristles. To get greasy dirt off the saw's trunnion and gear teeth, you may need to dip your brush in a non-flammable solvent degreaser, such as LPS T-91. Pry gunk that's trapped in narrow slots and cavities with a thin wood stick or narrow screwdriver. Next, use a strong shop vacuum to suck up the debris from all surfaces. Vacuuming is preferable to using an air hose, as high-pressure compressed air simply blows dust all over the shop, where you'll have to clean it up again. To help get into hard-to-reach spots, fit the end of the vac's hose with a crevice tool. While the saw is inverted, you should also vacuum the saw's motor housing and electrical switches and junction boxes. Fine dust built up in these areas can actually ignite from a tiny spark and cause a shop fire.

Lubrication

Once the saw's internal mechanisms are clean, it's time to lubricate them, so they'll operate smoothly and make adjustments easier. Since the inside of a table saw is constantly bombarded by flying sawdust, never apply wet lubricants, such as greases, oils and non-drying sprays like WD-40. Sawdust sticks to these compounds and eventually gums up the works. Instead, coat the saw's trunnions, gears, screw threads, and other working parts with a dry lubricant, such as powdered graphite or a drying spray lubricant such as Boesheild T-9 or LPS 1. Some woodworkers prefer to use paste wax for this purpose, although it takes more time and trouble to apply the wax to gears and hard-to-reach surfaces. Incidentally, drying lubricants are also great for preventing rust on your saw's other ferrous metal components, including saw tables and extensions, rip fence rails, miter gauge bar, and saw blades.

Checking Gear Wear

With the table saw still tipped or inverted, carefully inspect the blade height adjustment and tilt mechanisms for damage or excessive wear. If you can turn the saw's height or bevel adjustment wheel more than 1/8 turn without the blade arbor actually moving, there's too much play in the gears. A good way to check the bevel setting mechanism is to tilt the blade slightly off 90 degrees, lock the wheel, then remove the blade. Grab the arbor and see if you can make the trunnions move. If it moves easily or excessively, many saws have eccentric bushings or repositionable wheel-bearing retainers that allow you to tighten the fit between the mechanism's rack and pinion gears. As the procedure varies with different table saw types and models, it's best to consult your particular saw's manual for specific instructions on making these adjustments.

Pulley Alignment

To transmit power from the motor to the blade arbor with the least vibration, a table saw's belt pulleys (aka sheaves) need to be in good shape and proper alignment. On cabinet saws and portable table saws, it's usually easier to check and align pulleys with the saw still tipped or inverted; on contractor's saws it's necessary to do this with the saw set back upright (but still unplugged).

Inspect the pulleys and replace any that are bent, warped or excessively worn in any way. To check pulley alignment, lay a straightedge across the face of the motor pulley and arbor pulley. On some saws, you may need to tilt the blade so that the straightedge will clear the saw's cabinet or base. The straightedge should make full contact with both edges of the two pulleys. If there's an even gap at one pulley or the other, loosen the setscrew on the motor pulley and move it in or out on the shaft as necessary. To keep the setscrew from vibrating loose, apply a dab of LocTite thread compound to the screw's threads before retightening it. If the gap between pulley surfaces is uneven, loosen the bolts that secure the motor on its mount and shift the motor as necessary to bring the pulleys into alignment.

Belt Wear and Tension

A worn, partially broken or poorly tensioned belt can not only cause noise and vibration, but also reduces the power transmitted from the motor to the blade. With the still saw unplugged, inspect the belt carefully by turning the pulleys by hand. If there are any cracks, ply separations or lumps or areas of uneven or excessive wear, replace the belt right away. If your saw is fitted with multiple belts, you should replace them all at the same time, even if only one is damaged or worn out. Always use replacements that match the original belt(s) size and type. If you need to adjust the tension of the new belt(s) to keep them from flopping or putting excess stress on the motor and arbor bearings, follow the tensioning steps described in your table saw's instruction manual.

Adjusting the Blade Angle Stops

With your table saw clean and back on its feet (but not plugged in), you're ready to adjust the two stops used to set the saw's blade tilt for square (90 deg.) and 45 degree bevel cuts. After removing the saw's throat plate, mount your best saw blade; one with a clean, flat plate. Raise the blade to its full height and crank the tilt wheel until you've solidly engaged the 90 degree stop - just don't crank so hard as to put undue pressure on the stop. Using a large, accurate square, check the blade's squareness to the table from both sides. Make sure the blade's teeth don't get in the way of the square. If the blade isn't square to the table, loosen the 90 deg. stop screw (consult your manual if necessary). Now readjust the tilt angle until the blade is dead square, and reset the stop screw. Repeat the process until the stop reliably squares the blade to the table. Check the accuracy of the final setting by crosscutting a wood scrap in two using the miter gauge. Lay the parts on the saw table cut end to cut end and flip one part over and see if the ends meet squarely. Readjust the stop as necessary and recheck it.

Adjust the saw's 45 degree stop the same way as described, but use a miter square or a protractor to confirm the correct tilt angle. Check the final miter setting by cutting a scrap stick in half and arranging the 45 deg. cut ends like the corner of a picture frame. Use a large, accurate square to confirm that the beveled parts form a perfect 90 degree corner.

Adjustments for the Miter Slots and Gauge

To keep your miter gauge crosscutting accurately, there are several checks and adjustments you'll need to make. The first step is to make sure that the bar on your miter gauge fits snugly, yet slides smoothly in the table slot. Some miter bars have special inserts that can be adjusted in or out with a small Allen wrench. If your gauge lacks this feature, you can replace the bar with an aftermarket steel bar that has adjustable spring plungers that keep the bar tight in the slot.

Next, check that the slots on your table saw are actually parallel to the blade. If they're not, you'll never get accurate miter cuts, no matter how perfectly the gauge itself is adjusted. Start by mounting a good, flat saw blade and raising it to full height. There are several ways to check the slot/blade parallelism. The easiest method is to use a dedicated tool, such as Rockler's Superbar (available through Rockler's website) or the Woodpeckers Saw Gauge. These specialized tools accurately fit into the saw's miter slot and use a dial indicator to take readings on the front and rear surfaces of the blade body. If the dial shows a different reading front to back, then the slot is likely not parallel to the blade.

A lower-tech way of checking parallel is to clamp a scrap wood stick to a miter gauge set for a square cut. Extend the stick so that it just touches the front edge of the saw blade. Slide the gauge until the stick is touching the back edge and see if there's a gap (if there's resistance sliding the gauge, reset the stick to touch at the back of the blade and slide it forward). Measure any resulting gap between the blade and stick with an automotive feeler gauge. To make sure that any gaps aren't due to an un-flat saw blade, rotate the blade 90-180 degrees and repeat the process (also be sure and do this if you're using a special saw gauge).

If the parallelism test reveals a discrepancy of more than, say, .003-.005 in., then you should realign the blade and miter slot. On contractors' and some portable table saws, resetting parallel is done by shifting the saw's rear trunnion side to side on the underside of the saw table. On most cabinet style saws, this job is accomplished by rotating the entire table top relative to the saw's base. In either case, loosen the necessary bolts and shift the position of the trunnions or top slightly, then retighten the bolts and recheck the parallelism of the slots and blade.

Finally, check the angle stops on the miter gauge head by taking cuts and 90 and 45 degrees, and comparing the cut ends as you did when adjusting the blade tilt angle stops, described above. Readjust the screws on these stops as necessary so that they yield accurate cuts.

Adjust the Rip Fence

One of the most important things to do to maintain the cutting safety and accuracy of your table saw is to make sure the rip fence is basically parallel to the blade. A fence set with its back end closer to the blade than the front end tends to pinch the workpiece against the saw blade, which can result in a dangerous kickback.

An easy way to check for parallel is to press two 3/4-in. thick blocks at either end of the saw's right-hand miter slot, then lock the fence down just shy of the blocks and measure the gaps. Ideally, the gap at the back edge of the blade should be just a skosh (.001 - .002 in.) greater than the front gap (this provides just a slight bit of clearance at the back of the cut). Use a feeler gauge to check the gap. If the setting isn't right, loosen the screws or bolts that secure your rip fences bar to the fitting on the front rail and reposition the bar as necessary. Retighten the bolts and recheck fence alignment.

If your table saw has a cursor and scale on the front rail, position the fence bar so that its face lightly touches the saw blade teeth and lock it down. Reset the fence's cursor to read zero on the rail's scale.

Set the Throat Plate Height

The throat plate that fills the gap between your saw table and the blade must be set level relative to the surrounding saw table and so that it doesn't rock as the workpieces passes over it. This prevents workpieces from hanging up or tipping as they pass over the plate, which can result in miscut parts or worse.

Most stock and aftermarket table saw throat plates have small screws that allow you to set the plate's height and flatness. With a straightedge or the butt of a large try square bridging the table over the throat plate, adjust the screws until the plate is flush with the straightedge/try square and doesn't rock. You may wish to set the plate just a hair lower at the front, to eliminate any chance that the stock will hang up on it. If your plate doesn't have screws, use masking tape to shim the underside of the plate to raise and level it.

Extension Tables and Saw Level

If your table saw has bolt-on extension tables, check them with a straightedge or other flat block, to confirm that they're still aligned to the main saw table. Loosen the bolts and tap the extensions with a dead-blow mallet to realign them as necessary.

It's also a good idea to level your table saw table. Check by placing a carpenter's level on the top, both parallel and perpendicular to the blade. Readjust level by raising or lowering the feet on the saw's base, or driving shims under the saw cabinet.

Check the Blade Guard and Splitter

An important part of keeping your table saw safe to operate is making sure that the blade guard is in good shape and operating properly. Inspect the guard to make sure that its mounts and pivots are in good shape. The guard should float up over the top of workpieces easily; if it doesn't, lubricate the pivots. If the guard itself is cracked, broken or otherwise malfunctioning, it likely best to simply replace it.

If your guard has a splitter, use a straightedge to make sure that it's both parallel to and in line with the saw blade. If it's misaligned, loosen the splitter/guard mounting bolts or screws and move it sideways as necessary. Also inspect the guard's anti-kickback pawls (if your guard has them) and make sure their tips are sharp and springs are in good working order. If not, resharpen the tips with a file, and replace pawl springs if necessary.

Regular Blades and Table Maintenance

An easy thing to do regularly that helps improve table saw performance is to clean your saw's table top and blades so that they're shiny and rust free. Corrosion forming on saw table surfaces is a very common problem. But unless your shop is in a swamp, rust or corrosion (that forms on alloy tables) is relatively easy to deal with. First, remove crud and corrosion using a cleanser designed for either ferrous or non-ferrous metals, depending on whether your saw table is cast iron or aluminum alloy. Apply the cleanser and scrub the surface with a plastic abrasive pad, such as ScotchBrite®, and allow the surface to dry thoroughly (use a hairdryer, heat gun or compressed air to speed things up). To keep corrosion from coming back quickly, apply a dry coating, such as BoeSheild T-9, or Bullfrog rust preventative.

Clean all your saw blades, dado sets, molding cutters, etc. often to remove pitch and resin that builds up on the teeth and plate surfaces. One way to remove grime is to scrub your blades using a nylon-bristled brush and a specialized blade/bit cleaner, such as "Oxi Solve" or "Pitch Rx." Another approach is to spray blades with a household oven cleaner. Working outdoors or in a well-ventilated space, lay the blade on newspaper or cardboard that you can throw away afterwards. Wearing gloves and a mask if you're sensitive to cleanser fumes, spray the blades' surfaces and coat them thoroughly. Leave the cleaner on for at least 1/2 hour before rinsing the blade with lukewarm water. Dry it immediately with compressed air or a hairdryer, then coat the blade with a drying lubricant.

Experts say that sliding miter saws are the "sweet spot" in terms of miter saw sizes and types, with ample capacity for most users. This award-winning Makita miter saw makes smooth cuts on up to a 2-by-12 board, but its four-rail system makes it more compact than most 10-inch sliders. Admittedly the Makita doesn't meet the level of precision and features of the highly-regarded but pricey Festool Kapex KS 120 (*Est. $1,300), but comparison tests find the Makita is very competitive in terms of performance and ease of use. Its soft-start motor with electronic speed control handles thick hardwoods well, and the adjustable laser guide has a separate power switch. Warranty coverage is for one year.

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Makita LS1016L 10-Inch Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw with Laser List Price: $1,010.00 Sale Price: $499.00 You save: $511.00 (51%)   Eligible for free shipping! Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours 13 new from $499.00  3 used from $409.00

Description

This compound miter saw has a powerful 15 AMP 115V direct drive motor, electronic speed control and largest crown molding cutting capacity in its class. Compact design with a patented 4-Steel rail sliding system. Exclusive 6 linear ball bearings. Increased capacity for up to 6-5/8" crown molding (vertically nested), 4-3/4" baseboard (vertical), and 12" cross cuts at 90 degrees. Innovative direct drive gearbox and guard system. Miters 0-52 degrees left and 0-60 degrees right, with stops at 0, 15, 22.5, 31.6, and 45 degrees (left and right). Exclusive 4-3/4" tall dual sliding fence system features upper and lower fence adjustments for more precise miter and bevel cuts. Dual rear-handle bevel lock is easily accessible and adjusts 0-45 degrees (left and right), with positive stops at 22.5, 33.9 and 45 degrees (left and right). Large precision-machined aluminum base supports material for more efficient cutting. Replaceable stainless steel miter scale features large and easy-to-read markings. Easy one-touch miter lock for accurate adjustments and increased efficiency. Easy-to-read dual bevel scale for more precise adjustments. See-through blade guard system for greater visibility of blade and line of cut. Easy one-step blade changes for increased efficiency. Rubberized feet help tool stationary. Large adjustable fence levers for fast and easy adjustments Fully enclosed bottom throat plate for a cleaner work surface 4-1/2" base height enables user to use three (3) 2x material for temporary table extensions. Includes: 10" x 5/8" 60T TCT saw blade, vertical vise, dust bag, triangular rule, socket wrench, hex wrench. Max. cutting capacity miter capacity: 90 degrees - 4-3/4" x 12"; 45 degrees L/R - 2-1/2" x 8-1/2"; size (L x W x H) 28-1/8" x 25-1/4" x 26-1/2". Shipping weight 64.0 pounds.

Makita changes the game with the LS1016L 10-Inch Dual Slide Miter Saw featuring a crown molding cutting capacity of 6-5/8 inches (vertically nested)—the largest in its class. It has a patented Four-Steel Rail Sliding System that further increases rigidity to produce superior cuts, and the exclusive six linear ball bearings design for smooth, adjustment-free, "dead-on" accurate cuts. .c26-caption {font-family: Verdana, Helvetica neue, Arial, serif;font-size: 10px;font-weight: bold;font-style: italic;}.c26-matrix1a {font-family: Verdana, Helvetica neue, Arial, serif;font-size: 10px;background-color: #bcbec0;}.c26-matrix1b {font-family: Verdana, Helvetica neue, Arial, serif;font-size: 10px;background-color: #a7a9ac;}.c26-matrix1h {font-family: Verdana, Helvetica neue, Arial, serif;font-size: 11px;font-weight: bold;color: #ffffff;background-color: #008b97;text-align: center;}img.c26-border {border:1px black solid;}View largerLS1016L FeaturesCAPACITY - 6-5/8" Crown Molding (vertically nested) and 4-3/4" baseboard (vertical) cutting capacityACCURATE - Exclusive 6 linear ball bearings deliver smooth, solid, and adjustment-free "dead-on" accurate cutsPRECISION - Designed with a patented 4-steel rail sliding system further increases rigidity to produce superior cutsPORTABLE - Less weight (52.2 lbs.) and most compact design in its class for easy jobsite portabilityINCLUDES - Blade, dust bag, vertical clamp, wrench and triangleTool SpecificationsBlade diameter10"Arbor5/8"Crown molding (nested)6-5/8"Baseboard (vertical)4-3/4"Max. cutting capacity (90°)4-3/4" x 12"Max. cutting capacity (45° L/R )2-1/2" x 8-1/2"No-load speed3,200 RPMAMPs15.0Dimensions (LxWxH)28-1/8" x 25-1/4" x 26-1/2"Net weight52.2 lbs.Large Cutting Capacity, Increased AccuracyThe LS1016L has an innovative direct drive gearbox and patented retractable guard system engineered for increased vertical cutting capacity. At 6-5/8 inches, the LS1016L has the largest crown molding cutting capacity (vertically nested) in its class. The patented retractable rear guard also provides the LS1016L with 4-3/4-inch baseboard cutting capacity (vertical), and a 12-inch capacity at 90 degrees. In addition, the exclusive six linear ball bearings deliver smooth, solid and adjustment-free "dead-on" accurate cuts. The saw also has a patented Four-Steel Rail Sliding System that further increases rigidity to produce superior cuts, as the four steel rails provide less deflection. The result is a larger cutting capacity and more accuracy.Precise Miter and Bevel CutsThe LS1016L has an exclusive 4-3/4-inch sliding fence system, with four sliding fences featuring upper and lower fence adjustments for more precise miter and bevel cuts to accommodate a variety of cutting applications. The saw miters 0 degrees to 52 degrees left and 0 to 60 degrees right, with positive stops at 0, 15, 22.5, 31.6, and 45 degrees (left and right). The dual rear-handle bevel lock is easily accessible with adjustments 0 to 45 degrees (left and right), with positive stops at 22.5, 33.9, and 45 degrees (left and right). Precision adjustments are made easier with dual front bevel scales for improved visibility. The easy one-touch (push in & turn) miter lock system is designed for accurate adjustments and increased efficiency. For more precise cuts, a built-in laser indicates the line of cut whether the blade is turning or not, and also includes an on-off switch and micro-adjustments for precise "left-of-blade" or "right-of-blade" cutting.Ergonomic and Compact DesignIn addition to the large cutting capacity, power, and accuracy, the LS1016L offers a range of convenience and ease-of-use features. The LS1016L has less weight and the most compact design in its class, so it's portable and more easily transported. In addition, the patented Four-Steel Rail Sliding System requires two inches less rear space than competitor dual sliding miter saws. The see-through blade guard system provides greater visibility of blade and line of cut, and has a one-step blade change process for increased efficiency. The ergonomic rubberized horizontal D-handle design has a better fit and added comfort, and the large trigger switch is designed for easier operation.15 AMP Power, Smoother, Higher-Quality CuttingThe LS1016L has a 15 AMP direct gear box motor that never slips, bogs down, or requires maintenance like belt-driven saws. The soft start feature delivers smoother start-ups, and the Electronic Speed Control maintains constant speed under load for smoother, higher-quality cutting. Best in Class for a Range of ApplicationThe LS1016L is engineered for finish work, remodeling, trim work, and furniture making. It is ideal for a broad range of trades, including finish carpenters, professional woodworkers, case and base installers, cabinet installers, cabinet manufacturers, closet installers, decking and flooring applications, siding installers, stair installers, and general contractors seeking a best-in-class 10-inch dual slide compound miter saw for the jobsite or on the benchtop.About Makita Miter SawsMakita's new miter saws are designed with an innovative direct drive gearbox and patented retractable guard system engineered for large vertical cutting capacity—the new LS1016L 10-inch Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw has a crown molding cutting capacity of 6-5/8 inches (vertically nested). In addition, the exclusive six linear ball bearings deliver smooth, solid and adjustment-free "dead-on" accurate cuts. The saw also has a compact design with a patented Four-Steel Rail Sliding System that further increases rigidity to produce superior cuts, as the four steel rails provide less deflection. The four steel rails also enable a more compact rear design than standard two-rail systems. Makita's new miter saws with DXT (Deep and eXact Cutting Technology) deliver a larger cutting capacity and more accuracy combined with a more compact rear design.About MakitaMakita is a worldwide manufacturer of industrial quality power tools, and offers a wide range of industrial accessories. Makita applies leading-edge innovation to produce tools that are stronger, lighter, more powerful and easier to use. Makita USA, Inc. is located in La Mirada, California, and operates an extensive distribution network located throughout the U.S. For more information, please call 800/4-MAKITA (800/462-5482) or visit the web site at makitatools.com. Makita is Best in Class Engineering.WarrantyEach Makita tool is warranted to be free of defects from workmanship and materials for the period of ONE YEAR from the date of original purchase. Should any trouble develop during this one-year period, return the COMPLETE tool, freight prepaid, to one of Makita's Factory or Authorized Service Centers.What's in the BoxMakita LS1016L 10-inch Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw, 60T TCT Saw Blade, Vertical Vise, Dust Bag, Triangular Ruler, Socket Wrench and Hex Wrench.

Features

• Four-Steel Rail Sliding System
• 6 Linear ball bearings
• Capacity for up to 6-5/8-inch crown molding (vertically nested), 4-3/4-inch baseboard (vertical), and 12-inch cross cuts at 90
• Powerful 15 AMP direct drive motor
• Exclusive 4-3/4-inch tall dual sliding fence system

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MAKITA 10 Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw LS1016L
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Makita LS1016L Slide Compound Miter Saw w Laser FREE Delta 84 080 10 80T Blade
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Makita LS1016L 10 Dual Slide Comp Miter Saw w Laser W WARRANTY
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Makita LS1016L 10 inch Compound Miter Saw with Laser Used NO RESERVE
	$329.99 End Date: Sunday Jun-3-2012 9:06:29 PDT Buy It Now for only: $329.99 Buy It Now

Makita LS1016L 10 Dual Slide Comp Miter Saw w Laser W WARRANTY
	$399.99 End Date: Monday Jun-4-2012 11:47:12 PDT Buy It Now for only: $399.99 Buy It Now

Makita LS1016L 10 Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw w Laser Carbide Tipped Blade
	$556.32 End Date: Monday Jun-4-2012 22:34:20 PDT Buy It Now for only: $556.32 Buy It Now

If you need a larger miter saw, reviewers say the DeWalt DW716 provides excellent cutting capacity; with some tweaking, it can even crosscut a 2-by-10 board. Vertical capacity for baseboard and crown molding is also outstanding. Reviews praise this top-rated saw's build quality, performance and convenience. It's a double-bevel miter saw, which helps save time as well. A three-year warranty is standard, and a laser guide is available as an optional accessory.

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DEWALT DW716 15 Amp 12-Inch Double-Bevel Compound Miter Saw List Price: $724.59 Sale Price: $350.00 You save: $374.59 (52%)   Eligible for free shipping! Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days 18 new from Too low to display  2 used from $347.09

Description

Whether you're cutting baseboards or crown molding, the DEWALT 12-Inch Double-Bevel Compound Miter Saw provides quick, accurate cuts to complete the job. Thanks to a powerful 15 Amp motor, an easy-to-adjust cam-lock miter handle, convenient miter and bevel stops, and a tall fence for oversized decorative moldings, this compound miter saw is ready for a range of crosscutting and miter-cutting applications. In addition, it comes with a durable carbide blade, a blade wrench, and a convenient dust bag.12-Inch Double-Bevel Compound Miter SawAt a Glance:Powerful 15 amp motor delivers no-load speed of 3,600 rpmAdjustable stainless steel miter detent plate with 11 positive stopsTall, sliding fence for work with crown and base moldingsFour hardened steel bevel stops on each side for versatilityThree-year limited warranty, one-year free service, and 90-day money-back guarantee This miter saw features a 15 amp motor that delivers 3,600 rpm for a wide range of cutting jobs. View larger.The saw's tall fence allows you to cut oversized molding. View larger.Smart, Powerful Design for Quick, Accurate CutsThe DEWALT double-bevel compound miter saw's 12-inch blade is backed by a powerful and dependable 15 amp motor. Offering a no-load speed of 3,600 rpm, it makes quick work of cutting framing or molding, as well as other crosscutting and miter-cutting jobs.This sturdy saw is designed to deliver precise cuts, allowing for the versatile setups required for miter applications. The precise miter system's adjustable stainless steel miter detent plate features 11 positive stops for easy setup and improved efficiency. An easy-to-adjust cam-lock miter handle delivers quick and accurate miter angles, and features a convenient detent override, which allows you to adjust the miter setting without the saw slipping into the miter detents. And the saw's big miter capacity--0 to 50 degrees to the left and the right--adds versatility.The tall fence supports 6-5/8-inch crown molding nested vertically, as well as 6-1/2-inch base molding set vertically against the fence. The fence slides out of the way easily when it's time to make bevel cuts.Increased Bevel Capacity and Convenient StopsThis saw is also designed to deliver quick, accurate bevel cuts. You can easily set up for bevel cuts that measure between 0 and 48 degrees to the left and to the right. This handy setup provides increased capacity for big jobs and allows you to flip the saw instead of the material. Plus, with hardened steel bevel stops at 0, 33.9, 45 and 48 degrees on both sides, it makes finding and setting the most common bevel angles a quick, easy process.Ideal for a range of applications, the saw can deliver clean, 45-degree bevel cuts through dimensional lumber that measures up to 2 by 8 inches. And at 90-degrees, it can cross cut 2 by 10s.Portable and Compatible with the DEWALT Laser or L.E.D. SystemThis lightweight compound miter saw weighs just 44 pounds and features a built-in carry handle, so you can move it around the jobsite easily and lift it comfortably when it comes time to stow the saw at the end of the day.For additional accuracy and ease of use, this saw is compatible with the DEWALT' DW7187 adjustable miter saw laser system or the DWS7085 LED cut line indicator system (sold separately), which ensures that the cutting path is clear to see.This 12-inch double-bevel compound miter saw also comes with a DEWALT warranty package that includes a three-year limited warranty, a one-year free service contract, and a 90-day money-back guarantee.What's in the BoxDW716 DEWALT 12-Inch Double-Bevel Compound Miter Saw, carbide blade, dust bag, and blade wrench.Make exact cuts with the dependable, easy-to-adjust cam-lock miter handle.

Features

• 15.0 Amp, 3,600 rpm motor delivers extended power and durability
• Adjustable stainless steel miter detent plate with 11 positive stops Improves productivity and ensures cutting accuracy
• Precise miter system and machined base fence support optimize cutting accuracy
• Tall sliding fences support crown molding up to 6-5/8-inch nested and base molding up to 6-1/2-inch vertically against the fence while easily sliding out of the way for bevel cuts
• Innovative gearbox and belt-drive design increases vertical cutting capacity

Reviews